I had to write today because I realized that I'm only going to get further and further behind if I don't make time to post on my blog. As it is, I don't know where to start! First, a general update:
My philosophy class is awesome, but the French system is crazy. I showed up for my 'TD' or Travaux Dirigé, which is almost like a lab... if philosophy classes had labs... it's a supplement to the course, an extra hour per week. Anyway, I show up at 9:30 as posted, and there's two other people there and no teacher. So we wait... and then we go upstairs, and there's a new posting (changed since Monday, mind you, just two days ago) that says 10:30. So we wait an hour and the rest of the class shows up, and then the teacher says, by the way, next week is going to be 9:30 and the week after that the TD is on a different day entirely, in the afternoon! As if I can just arrange my schedule every week to suit this one class! Sheesh.
I don't have to worry anymore about not having enough to do. In fact, I'm almost too busy now. I know, picky picky. I just think I've gotten lazy now that I've had time off and I have to get back in the swing of things... Still, there's so much I want to do, and suddenly so little time! Class, conversation club, sports, discussion group that I'm hosting, traveling... every day this week I've left the house at 8:30 am and gotten back at 8:30 pm. But I guess that's a good thing!
Okay, now about Paris! I was invited by Benoît, a French friend who I met through Michael. We'd never hung out just the two of us before, but every time we went out in a group we enjoyed talking to each other, so it wasn't too awkward. He is one of the nicest guys I've ever met, I've decided. Well, judge for yourself...
The weekend had a rocky start. On the way to the train station Saturday afternoon, I started to worry I was making a mistake by going for just a day and a half to Paris. Was it worth the money? Would I have time to see anything? But I'd already bought the tickets online, so too late to change my mind! We were already running a little behind schedule, and then things got worse: The electronic ticket machine required a credit card to verify my identity and print my tickets, but it couldn't read my card! And the train was about to leave! We didn't have time to wait in line for an employee to help us, so Benoît said, 'Don't worry, we'll just talk to the controller on the train and figure out what to do.' So we barely made the train, and then the controller said I had to buy another ticket but that they could refund it in Paris. It was twice the price of my original, but since I was getting the money back anyway, oh well! Of course his machine couldn't read my card either, so I had to pay in cash... and I didn't have enough, so Benoît loaned me some. (He was so patient through this whole ordeal!)
Then things started to get better. After the controller left, we moved to first class (where Benoît's tickets were) and watched a really funny French movie on his laptop, Le Diner des Cons. We were laughing all the way to Paris. Then we got there and ran into a stubborn and stereotypically rude French person that had me so frustrated I was about ready to cry. This guichet (ticket-seller) wouldn't refund my money or even do anything to help me whatsoever, all he did was give me an address to write to and basically tell me to get out of the way! Thank goodness (again!) for Benoît, who steered me towards a younger guichet and explained the whole thing and voilà, this guy got his boss to come over and manually type in the numbers on my credit card and print out my ticket for the return trip and refunded my ticket for the trip over. Phew. So all I had to do now was mail in a request for the difference between the price of the original and the price I paid on the train. Still a pain, but again Benoît came to my rescue, saying he would ask his mom to write a letter on my behalf, since if it isn't perfectly clear and concise the typical French employee won't bother to read it... What a mess, but I guess it could have been worse, and now I've learned my lesson about those electronic ticket machines!!! And like I said, isn't Benoît the sweetest? Too bad he lives 6 hours away by train...
So, I calmed down, and again things were on the upswing. We met his aunt Patou (short for Patricia) and his cousin Marion and they were sooooo nice. They fed us excellent food, gave me a really nice room to sleep in, a shower - and didn't treat me like a stranger at all, it was like I was part of the family! (Far more so than with my host family, even.)
After eating, at about 4:00, Benoît and I departed to 'walk around a bit.' Ha! We ended up traversing all of Paris by foot over the next four and a half hours!!! I'm not sure how that happened, but it was amazing. We started out in the southeast corner, then walked north through the Latin Quarter, past the Pantheon, west along the length of the Seine, had a great view of Notre Dame from afar, crossed the Pont des Arts, passed through the courtyard of the Louvre, walked the length of the Rue de Rivoli and the entire Champs-Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe, then turned southwest and ended up at the Eiffel Tower at 8:30. Wow!!! I don't know how far that is but if you figure 3 miles an hour, that makes at least 12...
And yes, there is a great Metro system in Paris, and that would have been an easy way to get around. But I think walking was a great way to get a feel for how the different districts of the city are connected, how far apart things are, what the average street scene is like in various parts of the city, etc. It's kind of an 'it's about the journey and not the destination' sort of thing. We weren't walking to get somewhere specific, we were just wandering in a general direction and checking out what happened to be along the way. Plus we had a nice conversation and got some good exercise! And it makes for a good story... 'The day I walked across Paris'... :)
That night we met Marion and Patou so we could all go to this big festival that happens once a year called La Nuit Blanche. That's a French expression that means a night that you don't sleep at all (English equivalent = 'all-nighter'? That's all I could think of...). So for this festival there are certain things open all night, 8 pm to 8 am, like swimming pools and parks and certain Metro lines, etc. and there are all kinds of bizarre spectacles and art displays. It was weird but kind of cool... The atmosphere of the city was really lively, with the roads and sidewalks all completely packed and tons of stuff going on.
The spectacles that we went to were big disappointments, though. The first was what, from the program's description, we expected to be an orchestra on separate boats, coordinated by some kind of signal and playing a piece composed by such-and-such modern composer, while floating down the Seine. Sounds cool, right? Ha, it turned out to be an 'orchestra' OF boats, that is, 'playing' their horns in a supposedly coordinated manner! It sounded like BLEH, BLURGH, BLEEP, MREH... and somebody wrote this piece!!! It was funny how bad it was, actually. Best of all, this guy came around with a news camera and asked Marion what she thought. She made up some flowery response - highly imaginitive, she's a drama queen and it's cute - and then to my horror, the camera man turns to ME: Et vous, Mademoiselle, qu'est-ce que vous pensez? Now, I don't like cameras in general, but to have to explain in another language my reaction to that crazy display was - beyond the realm of possibility. I stammered something about, 'as an American student, I find that La Nuit Blanche is a great representation of the French culture's appreciation for art' - but of course not nearly that coherent. And after he turned away I breathed a huge sigh of relief. But for all I know, I could have been on French TV!
We also saw a dance featuring, of all things, three garbage trucks driving around in circles (!!!) - yes, choreographed by a Russian choreographer and with incredibly atonal electronic noise (I can't even call it music). And like 500 people turned out to see this! It was incredible! After the 10 minute 'dance,' I was flabbergasted by the sheer nonsense of it all and I just burst out laughing. We also saw huge ant images projected onto the side of a building; Le Bal Perdu, which was kind of cool with live music and fake snow but the snow was really chemically and made it hard to breathe so we left... Anyway, it was a fun night, and we got home at 2:30 am and I fell into the wonderfully large and comfy bed they'd given me, totally exhausted!!!
And that was only the first day! But I will have to write again later about Sunday, because I have to go to class. A suivre... (To be continued...)
Okay, I'm back. This isn't going to be too long because I just wrote a giant blog about the castles of the Loire (see above) and I'm a little blogged out. But I have to finish my narrative of the Paris trip! (I can't just leave it hanging like that...)
Sunday we tried to get up at a decent hour but nonetheless didn't leave the house before noon. Still, we lucked out, because on the first Sunday of the month the museums are free! Thus, we got to see the Musée d'Orsay without paying a cent... and based on how great it was, that was a heck of a deal. I love Impressionism, and I got to see all my favorite painters - Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh! - and sculptors, Degas and Rodin... wow. It was stunning. The paintings are so much more... just more, in real life. Vivid, impressive, I dont know. It was the colors, the textures, everything! Girls at the Piano, Woman Reading, and Danse à Moulin de la Galette (Renoir) are still some of my favorites (I saw the gardens at Moulin de la Galette later that day, by the way!); Monet's four versions of the same church, and of course his gardens - I'd love to visit Giverny; some of the dancers, painted and sculpted, by Degas really struck me. There was just so much to see! My absolute favorite though was a pair of sculptures by an artist I've never heard of, Eve before the sin and of course Eve after the sin. I don't know why I like them so much; they're just so expressive and classic. I was excited to figure out that they were a pair because they were in different rooms but I was immediately drawn to both of them... Anyway... Let's just say the Musée d'Orsay was a big hit with me!
After that, we went to Mont Martre and wandered around that artsy district (apparently we hadn't had enough art and culture for the day...) and saw the great view of Paris from the top of the hill. We had hot chocolate at the Amelie café on the way back down. (If you haven't seen that delightful French film, you should! Amelie is just so irrestible!) It looks just like it does in the movie... even the bathroom door (if you've seen the film, you can't forget that funny scene!). That was fun... Then, all too soon, we were back at the train station and I had to go home. :( At least the way back was far less dramatic than the way there, at least for me. Benoît thought he had plenty of time to make his train to Grenoble, where he goes to school, at the other station, but he just barely made it on before the doors closed! Thank goodness he did, because that was the last train of the night! But of course I didn't know this until later... I just had a nice peaceful train ride back home, finishing my homework. ;) All in all, a very successful weekend!